You might have noticed that on the Thursday meet and greet at Gallifrey One I debuted my new Matt Smith series seven costume.
It was all a bit last minute - I didn’t start work on the frock coat until the 1st of February, less than two weeks before I flew out - and the velvet waistcoat was thrown together on the Tuesday Tuesday before, the day before I set out!
I’m pretty darn pleased with the frock coat.
Leaving it this late did mean I got a lot of the subtle details nailed which some others might have missed or got wrong.
One thing in particular I did spot was the bizarre configuration of buttons and buttonholes down the front.Firstly there are NO buttons!
However, there are a dozen buttonholes - three in each lapel and three on either side around the middle.
The lowest of these is unusually above the waistline seam.
They don’t show up in most photos, but if you look very closely there is a shot in the latest trailer where the lighting picks them out (see left).
This arrangement of holes reminds me very much of the frock coats worn by Tom Baker during his era.
While at Gallifrey, I had the chance of a decent photo shoot courtesy of Scott Sebring, who kindly offers his professional services to the cosplayers free of charge!
Here is my costume in all its glory. Thanks Scott!
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| Photo © Scott Sebring |
Posts
Stellar work on this beautiful new frock. Do you think Matt's is cut with an underarm sidebody? It seems like with a figure like his it would help with the fit. Also, one of the publicity photos of the back showed up on my monitor looking like it was a whole back without a center back seam, is this the case? Did you construct the inside with breast pockets and the classical frock coat waist seam pocket? Finally, is it just the shadows in this screencap or does the outbreast welt pocket on Matt's frock seem to be constructed in a RTW manner with the lip of the welt flush with the upper seam of the inside rather than the bespoke method that has the welt overlap this seam?
ReplyDeleteYou are my hero! I have hungered for this coat ever since I saw it on the latest episode! If you have any tips, patterns anything that could help me, I would be forever grateful. That looks amazing.
ReplyDeleteThe pattern is a pretty standard Edwardian British frock coat.
DeleteAlso, do you have the 4 buttons on each sleeve? I couldn't tell from the pics.
ReplyDeleteOh yes, I have the buttons. I used top quality genuine horn buttons.
DeleteI also have the correct number of buttonholes - twelve - on the coat front.
Something other have missed.
Steve,
ReplyDeleteHow many meters did it take to make that beautiful coat?
I used four metres of the fabric - and at over £300 a metre, it HURTS!
DeleteI have seen some similar Italian wool on the Internet that is a lot cheeper, I think I'll have a bash at the poor mans version
DeleteI'm curious where you found the cheaper wool
DeleteI noticed when watching the episode that the color looks to have a ridged corduroy texture. I'm still searching (so far in vain) to try and find that main fabric!
ReplyDeleteAh! Found a good picture where I can see the collar pattern that I saw inn the episode!
ReplyDeletehttp://filmreviewonline.com/wp-content/gallery/doctor-who-2000s-series-7b-matt-smith/doctor-who-7b-001.jpg
Wow, I really need to learn to proofread before I click submit. Sorry for the rush of comments and typos. This coat has me overly excited, and I'm impressed with your efforts, resourcefulness and amazing results! It's just always nice to find kindred spirits! I can get quite obsessive about my replica pursuits, and especially coats and jackets.
ReplyDeleteLove it! Are you going to alter the collar facing from velvet to the needle corduroy? Gorgeous fabric!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteI don't need to - I used corduroy.
DeleteHad to specially dye it to get near the right colour.
Could be a bit bluer, but I'm happy with it.
Hey Steve, nice job on the costume. I'm searching coat patterns and found this:
ReplyDeletehttp://compare.ebay.com/like/130876603241
It's described as Men's Victorian Frock Steampunk. It seems (from the limited pics) to be the closest that I have found. Could you comment on whether or not you think it's close?
Well, that is a fairly classic frock coat pattern, and in theory it can be adapted.
DeleteLuckily the adaptions are all on the side of simplifying rather than complicating the pattern.
However, I will say I used that pattern early in my career for a Five Frock Coat and found it need drastic adjustment to suit my taste of cut.
The assembly instructions are NOT the way a frock coat should be assembled, so need to be taken with a cup of salt.
Best of luck!
Hi. Brillant blog! I'm looking to make as well a purple frock coat. I'm looking for a pattern and found your comment.
DeleteMay I ask you if you can recommand a pattern to start with for the purple frock coat? I found the Launghin Moon Mercantile n°109: http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p109.htm
Is it good or maybe anothe one?
Thx in advance for your advice.
Regards, Dom
It's a pattern I used in my early days too.
DeleteIt is okay as a beginning, but I did need to adapt it quite a bit - I found the cut to me a bit too wide at the waist.
I also found the assembly instructions to be a bit rubbish. I have since found a lot of it tell you to do things in the wrong order.
Keep a close eye on getting the two waistline seems level across the back - it isn't as easy as it looks!
Good luck!!!
Thx for your quick reply! I read these comments as well and it bother me honestly said. Love the real things. I'm part of a 15th medieval reenactement group, and will be great to found a another anachronism in my life :o)
DeleteIt's a new start and as I love Doctor Who... the connection is made.
I was looking at the single breasted froack coat at page 98-99 of the book "The Victorian Tailor" but have no idea of the final result. Less bent at the hips maybe. Is it better than 109 for the visual? If yes, I will give a try with the one of the book.
Do you recommend a another victorian book for patterns? I think I've falling in love with this period.
Thx for the tip for the waistline!
Regards,
Dom
I have that book and looking at it I would say it is a better block than the Laughing Moon.
DeleteThe best one I found is contained in the Modern Tailor and Cutter, a three volume set from the 1920s.
Thx a lot!
DeleteIt is from this serie: "The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol I from A S Bridgland" ?
Thx a lot once again. I will drop the pattern 109.
That's the one!
DeleteCan be found on eBay - but not cheap.
I think there is a modern soft back reprint, but I can't vouch for its content.
can i just ask what did you use for the pocket watch pendant?
ReplyDeletethanks!
The chain and pendent are just to complete the look and aren't necessarily screen accurate.
DeleteDo a google or eBay search for Double Albert Fob Chain.
Mine came with a shield pendant which I replaced with a Victorian penny
Where oh where did you get that amazing fabric!?!?!
ReplyDeleteit looks fantastic. (*waves* just found your blog as I'm making my first ever dw costume and was looking to see if anyone else had tried making the s7 outfit).
ReplyDeleteWould you agree the waistcoat and coat are 1870s kinda style?
I'm struggling to find a ladies frock coat pattern that would work. Any suggestions on patterns?
Hello Steve! I managed to get some decently close material here in the States at a JoAnn fabrics.... It seems to be an upholstery material. A tinge on the red side, but still purply, and I must say, looks rather good in sunlight. Has the speckles in it too. NOT soft like cashmere, but twas $4/yard :) You're right, Edwardian style frock, more turn of the 20th century and not so complex. The main body is together, not as bad to sew as I thought it would be. Should be done soon, and debuting at GenCon here in Indianapolis next month.... With guest, Peter Davison :)
ReplyDeleteQuestion though: for the split in the tail, did you leave yours open, or did you put in buttons, ala the Tennant coat? I couldn't see any buttons in there on the 2 pics I have (that don't show it all that clearly)....
The actual coat has a normal vent, no buttons like on Tennant's coat, I remember a picture of Matt running from Hide and you could see it clearly
DeleteIs your collar of the frock coat velvert or corduroy? because the screen used one is corduroy :)
ReplyDeleteAs I've mentioned previously I used corduroy and had to over-dye it to achieve the right colour.
DeleteYou are aware that Matt Smith never wore a red waist coat and solid red bow tie with the purple frock.
ReplyDeleteAre you aware I put the entire costume together in two weeks?
DeleteThe coat was the show piece, the rest is just place-holder stuff til I get better versions made.
Do you plan on hunting down the fabric for the waistcoat? Considering how well you hunted down the Tennant coat and this coats fabric, it'd be nice to have your tracking skills focused on the waistcoat fabric (the gray one from the rings of akhaten, hide, etc)
DeleteSir I would like to say that you look very nice in your costume. You did a wonderful job on it in the short amount of time you had!
ReplyDeleteBest wishes on your future Doctor Who endeavors!
Lou Jefferson
London, England
Could you give me a link to a similar Edwardian Frock Coat pattern? I've looked all over the internet and have found nothing satisfactory...
ReplyDeleteHi, nice job, do you actually wear that out and about down the street or do you save it for conventions, I love Dr Who coats but I feel self conscious about trying to wear them out and about though Id love to. I think itd attract too many looks lol
ReplyDeleteIt feels so nice to wear, but I'm terrified of damaging during casual wear.
DeleteYou'd be the same if you had a £1,500 coat!